Limping Toward Justice

An international accompanier's account of her time in a Colombian community engaged in non-violent resistance to the decades old armed conflict.

"Justice...limps along, but it gets there all the same." -Colombian Nobel Prize winning author, Gabriel García Márquez

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Reconciling Atrocities

A couple of nights ago I was making dinner, cutting up a squash we grew in our little garden, and chatting with one of my young friends in the community. Her father was killed in the massacre of July 8th 2000 that happened directly in the center of La Unión. I have mentioned this massacre before in this blog, I have talked about it at length with friends and neighbors here in the village, I have not yet come to terms with the horror that people must have felt as they were assembled and then asked to give up their leaders. I cannot imagine what it felt like to remain silent and then watch as masked paramilitary gunmen picked out three of their leaders and three of their fellow community members in spite of the courageous silence. It seems unbearable to reconstruct the moments soon after when the paramilitaries, keeping the six men at gunpoint, ordered everyone else to flee, as a Colombian military helicopter circled directly overhead – demonstrating absolute complicity with the illegal armed group. And then the shots firing just as people had barely reached the path outside of the gate that encircles La Unión. I have no emotional reference to even begin to access what my young friend felt as she heard the shots that killed her father.

At nine years old I was worried about playing soccer and having sleepovers and what was happening down in Fraggle Rock. I was not dealing with the violent and terrorizing death of my father as it unfolded in the remote mountain village of my birth. Here in La Unión, thoughts of the massacre are never far away as the protracted violence that continues in the land the community calls home and indeed, all over Colombia prevents time from softening the horror of this act. And, as if that weren’t enough, the current public hearings of paramilitary ringleaders and demobilized combatants re-awaken the atrocities with an unbelievably cruel and tragically unjust take on justice. In order to qualify for the legal benefits that are part of the demobilization package codified in the offensively named Justice and Peace Law (Ley de Justicia y Paz), demobilized paramilitary leaders and combatants must make a full confession of their crimes. The legal benefits include a maximum sentence of 8 years for crimes committed and guarantees against extradition. Colombian paramilitaries are responsible for some of the most atrocious human rights crimes thinkable and if a “full confession” of these atrocities is made, the maximum time served would be eight years – plus if they have already been in jail, time served is taken out of the sentence. This keyboard does not have the exclamatory range to express how outrageous and preposterous this is. I understand that after more than fifty years of internal conflict a government should consider all options for ending the violence and soft judicial proceedings for crimes against humanity might seem like a way to end paramilitarism. But as these hearings unfold I have become even more convinced of the cruel and obvious disregard for justice or peace in the so-named law.

This past week have seen the, versiones libres or public confessions of Jorge 40 and Don Berna, the common known alias of two of the most notorious of the paramilitary war lords as well as a demobilized paramilitary from the Bloque Banero that operated in San José, José Adriano Cano, known as his alias, “Melazo”. As part of his lengthy confession, Don Berna – who is still known to be controlling paramility activities in Medellín from prison - admitted to ordering the above-mentioned massacre in 2000 in La Unión. Adding to this, “Melazo” admitted to committing the same massacre of 6 leaders in La Unión, of which my young friend’s father and uncle were included. He said that he and ten other paras, all with faces covered in ski masks, had patrolled the area with members of the public forces, proving collusion between the paramilitary and state forces and finally giving official credence to the version of the massacre that the community has always insisted upon as the truthful version. A couple of months ago, this same man admitted to having been present with the Colombian army as they committed the massacre of February 2005 which killed community leader Luis Eduardo Guerra, 3 children and four other adults.

As I continued to prepare the squash I carefully brought up the fact that two of the paramilitary’s responsible for her dad’s death were admitting to it as part of the confessions necessary to take advantage of the Justice and Peace Law. Her delicate face hardened into anger and pain as she said the only reconciliation would be the death of the men who killed her father, uncle and the 4 other leaders and community members. I found myself unable to argue with her – while at the same time thinking of how I should be speaking up for one of the moral stances I find non-negotiable; my opposition to capital punishment – thinking of how I should at least try to gently suggest a ‘turn the other cheek’ alternative to meeting violence with violence. But I found myself absolutely incapable to challenge her resolute response and felt instantly shaken and unsure about what I thought these monstrous men deserve. I just don’t know. I do know that the audacity to suggest that these are truth and reconciliation trials strikes me as callous and cruelly disingenuous. I do know that I will never be able to understand what it is she must feel – what the friends and families of the countless victims must feel. I do know that persuading these war lords to admit to “all of their crimes” and then punishing them with what amounts to a light slap on the wrist is not the answer to this convoluted and overwhelming war. I do know that I could live and work in this country another 25 years and still not really understand the complexity and many layers of corruption and violence that envelop Colombia.

Victims and families of victims have been showing up at the hearing sites in large numbers – thousands of people registered to be present for Don Berna’s public confession – a right granted to them by the government. However, there have also been “supporters” of the paramilitary war lords present with signs proclaiming grateful support for these monsters who are personally responsible for the deaths and disappearances of thousands of innocent civilians. In many cases it seems that the big shot about to confess has made monies available to pay campesinos from the areas he once controlled to rally at his confession sight and appear supportive and even taken aback that such a caring and upstanding citizen could be under arrest for such atrocious crimes. The pictures and stories I’ve seen on these gatherings are just sickening. I am glad to juxtapose them with the sights and words of the victims who courageously appear in hopes of getting some answers to why and when and how their loved ones were taken or killed. The photos show faces similar to that of my young friend – faces twisted in anguish and despair but hardened by anger and the awareness of being on the true side of justice and peace.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Recent Events - not so much fun


The assasination of Alto Bonito Humanitarian Zone Leader, Dairo Torres, on this past Friday the 13th really shook me. I had never met Dairo, although he is well known by anyone I ask here in the community, so I am not feeling the extreme personal loss that comes with knowing a person whose life has been taken. But the way he was killed and the events leading up to his assassination and the feeling here in the zone since, is eerie and not very comforting.

The two paramilitary gunmen who killed Dairo,were seen the day before on the road between Apartadó and San José. They were looking for someone and they were doing so in broad daylight, on a well traveled road, in extremely close proximity to the police post that is permanently set up on the road as it leaves Apartadó. They were dressed in civilian clothes, carried small guns and told the chivero that they stopped at one point that they were members of the Aguilas Negras (Black Eagles – one of the resurgent paramilitary groups that has formed all over Colombia after the supposed “demobilization” of all paramilitary forces”).

Earlier that week, FARC guerrillas had dressed up as members of the Colombia military, entered the soccer court in the center of San José around 8:45pm and shot at Colombian policemen from close range, injuring two officers, one – Hernán López Cardona died soon after from his wounds. It wasn’t quite a combat, more like volleys of shots from both sides, lasting only minutes but resulting in the death of Officer López who was soon to complete his service with the National Police and return home to his family. The guerrillas ran off into the mountains, aided by the dark of the night and so far, no captures have been made. The shots could not be heard from La Unión but the community members living only 20 minutes walk away from San José had quite a scare as the shots were easily heard ringing through the night. This is precisely why the community displaced in April of 2005 as the police post was installed, they refused to be used as civilian shields, never mind share space with an armed group. The astuteness of that decision was made clear soon after in June of 2005 when the FARC first attacked the police post, injuring three officers and leading to subsequent smaller attacks.

A few days after this fatal shooting in San José, the two paramilitary men appeared on the main transportation route. The next morning, Friday, they were seen sitting with the police officers at the already mentioned police post. This post is a routine part of our weekly trips to Apartadó as we pass it while riding on the only public service vehicle – the jeeps or “chiveros” that run up and down the road to San José. The police are always present and lately, have taken to stopping the jeeps and doing cursory searches of people and bags. On this particular morning, the police and paramilitaries sat and talked and then about three hours later, the chivero carrying Dairo and a few others made its way past the now empty police post and, only minutes after, stopped by the 2 paramilitary men, dressed in civilian clothes.

The two armed men told Dairo to get out of the jeep, Dairo refused. One of the men then shot at Dairo, hitting him in the shoulder and leaving the bullet lodged in the jeep. The men then forced Dairo off the jeep and told the driver to continue on. Dairo’s body was found at the same spot in the road when the next jeep came up soon after. The next day blood was still visible in the spot of the assassination.

The last time that we came up on the jeep, the police were at their post and there were no suspicious gunmen along the road. But there is a heightened military presence and everyone here seems to be more on edge than usual. These events have been a definite jolt to the calm that I have felt in recent months as I truly settled in to the oftentimes, deceivingly tranquil life of this rural community. There has been a large and international response to Dairo’s assassination (you can still send some emails if you’d like, the info is found in the previous post) and we continue to analyze our security and safety at every moment. It is times like these when the model of international accompaniment is most put to test. Our deterrence is more needed than ever as things heat up and my faith in this model remains solid and sure. But I would be lying if I said that I wasn’t a little bit freaked out, which I think is only natural.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Paramilitaries Kill Leader of San José de Apartadó Peace Community

Paramilitary gunmen killed Dairo Torres, a leader of the San José de Apartadó Peace Community, on Friday, July 13, shortly after 12 noon, according to the community. Torres was a passenger on one of the jeeps that serve as the only public transport between the city of Apartadó and San José, when it was intercepted by two paramilitaries – the same men who detained the jeep the previous day and made threats against the Peace Community. The community said that gunmen told Torres to get off the jeep, which he did; they told the driver to continue, and then they killed Torres on the spot.

The killing occurred only two minutes from a police checkpoint, where earlier in the day witnesses saw the gunmen sitting and conversing with police.

Torres was a leader of the humanitarian zone of Alto Bonito, a hamlet of San José de Apartadó. He is the fourth San José humanitarian zone leader to be killed in the last 20 months. Humanitarian zones are sites established by the Peace Community where civilians can go in case of combat between the armed groups that are active in the area, and be respected under the norms of international humanitarian law.

The killing occurred just four days after an attack by FARC guerrillas on the police post in the town center of San José de Apartadó, which killed a policeman, Hernán López Cardona, and wounded another policeman. In April 2005, the Peace Community displaced to land a mile from the town center when the police post was installed, precisely because it would make the civilian population a military target for the FARC.

Extensive Colombian media reports of the FARC attack conflated the Peace Community – which has no presence near the police post – with the San José town center where the police are located. La Patria, in a July 12 tribute to the fallen policeman, wrote “San José de Apartadó, [is] a population denominated as a Peace Community. Nevertheless, the guerrillas patrol there and this was demonstrated by the attack.” El Tiempo also stated that the attack took place “in the Peace Community of San José de Apartadó.” None of the media reports mentioned that the Peace Community had displaced away from the town center when the police post was established, so as not to live with any armed group.

The day after the attack, according to the community, police told several people in San José that the attack had originated from the Peace Community’s settlement and that it would pay for it. On July 12, according to a community statement, paramilitary gunmen on the Apartadó-San José road identified themselves to public transport passengers as ‘Aguilas Negras’ (Black Eagles), and said “that SOB peace community would begin to pay very dearly.” ‘Aguilas Negras’ is the name used by a paramilitary group newly active in several parts of Colombia.

The Peace Community first announced the establishment of humanitarian zones in Alto Bonito and seven other hamlets in February 2005. Ten days later, two families, including Community leader Luis Eduardo Guerra, were massacred by men whom witnesses said were army soldiers. Army soldiers killed Arlen Salas, coordinator of the Arenas Altas humanitarian zone, in November 2005, in what it said was an accident; soldiers killed his successor, Edilberto Vásquez in January 2006, claiming he was a guerrilla killed in combat. Seven soldiers subsequently have been charged with his murder. Francisco Puertas, another humanitarian zone leader, was killed by a paramilitary gunman on May 13 of this year.

The shameless challenge to Washington’s purported values of human rights could not be more direct. The hundreds of violations, including more than 180 killings, against the Peace Community of San José de Apartadó, have been the subject of mandatory protective rulings by the Inter-American Court of Human Rights, and six collective letters from dozens of Members of Congress to Colombian officials and Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice. More than $70 million of U.S. military aid was suspended in 2005, in large part as a result of outrage over the massacre in San José in February 2005. Members of Congress have visited the Peace Community. FOR and many other NGOs have focused the attention of thousands of people to urge the Colombian government to put an end to the violence and impunity against this community.

If this is what happens to a community that Colombian and US officials say they are acting to protect, what is the fate of the many communities in Colombian conflict zones that are not the subject of so much human rights concern? After all this, why should the United States continue to support Colombia’s military and police forces when clear collaboration between state and paramilitary forces routinely results in the murder of members of this small and neutral peasant community?

Please take action!

Write an email or fax to the US Department of State, expressing sorrow for the killings of Hernán López Cardona and Dairo Torres, and urging:

That State Department officials make a public declaration expressing concern about reports of police collaboration in the assassination of Dairo Torres,
That State Department officials publicly support the establishment and honoring of humanitarian zones in areas of conflict as instruments for upholding the principle in international humanitarian law of protection of civilians from adversaries in armed conflict.

The Fellowship of Reconciliation believes that the United States should suspend assistance to the Colombian National Police until the reported links of its members to paramilitary groups or other illegal armed groups are fully investigated and prosecuted.

Contact:
Jonathan D. Farrar
Principal Deputy Assistant Secretary
Bureau of Democracy, Human Rights, and Labor
Email: FarrarJD2@state.gov Fax: 202-647-5283



========================
Statements by Peace Community:
PARAMILITARES ASESINAN A DAIRO


Con dolor, rabia e impotencia hacemos esta constancia del asesinato de nuestro compañero, amigo y líder DAIRO TORRES.

Ayer 13 de julio a las 12:15 p.m., a cinco minutos de la salida de Apartadó en la carretera hacia San José, fue interceptado el vehículo de servicio público por dos paramilitares, los mismos que habían salido el jueves 12 de julio haciendo amenazas contra la comunidad. Pararon el vehículo los paramilitares y con armas cortas en las manos le dijeron a DAIRO que se bajará, DAIRO se bajó, luego los paramilitares le dijeron al chofer del carro que siguiera, y allí mismo asesinaron a DAIRO.

El asesinato ocurrió a menos de dos minutos del retén de la policía, pero el descaro no para allí, hacia las 9:10 a.m. se le habían visto a los dos paramilitares conversando y sentados con la policía en el retén que tienen en el Mangolo a la salida de Apartadó hacia San José. La complicidad es total, aquí sobran las palabras, los hechos son mas dicientes.

DAIRO era coordinador de la zona humanitaria de Alto Bonito (ubicada a cuatro horas de San Josesito), un líder que venía trabajando con la comunidad desde el 2004, un hombre íntegro, serio, responsable, un líder total que trabajaba incansablemente por las veredas. Participaba activamente en las asambleas de la comunidad, en sus reuniones, un artífice en el proceso de la comunidad.

Sabemos ya del cinismo y descaro del estado que dirán mentiras como lo hicieron con el asesinato de Francisco Puertas el 14 de mayo: fue delincuencia común, aquí no existen paramilitares, era un guerrillero, no era líder, no trabajaba con la comunidad, lo expulsaron de la comunidad, lo mataron en otro lado, etc, etc.

Es un crimen de los paramilitares en total complicidad con la policía, ya veníamos dejando constancia de estos hechos sin que ninguna institución del Estado actuara en absoluto, las amenazas de la policía no se dejaron esperar y sus mensajeros los paramilitares cumplieron órdenes bastante rápido.

Es un golpe brutal para la comunidad, para la zona, ya que DAIRO era un hombre claro en la resistencia civil y en su liderazgo en las veredas. Pedimos con urgencia la solidaridad nacional e internacional para exigirle al estado que pare el exterminio contra la comunidad, contra la población civil de la zona.

Esta es una acción atroz y por ello mismo sabemos que el dolor nos debe llevar a seguir resistiendo civilmente como lo hemos hecho, como no lo enseñó DAIRO, que sigue y seguirá entre nosotros, dándonos luces y ayudándonos a seguir de pie, mas firmes que nunca en los principios que defendió, como es el derecho a ser respetada la población civil en medio del conflicto armado. A su familia, su compañera, sus tres hijos pequeños, nuestro más sentido pésame, estamos con ustedes para seguir en esta causa justa por la vida, la paz y la dignidad.


COMUNIDAD DE PAZ DE SAN JOSE DE APARTADO
Julio 14 de 2007

Friday, July 06, 2007

a bit of a complaint. also: GOOOOOLLLL!


Mayra and I went to the beach this past weekend, thus fulfilling weekend getaway plans that Mireille and I made back in January. We headed toward the sea-accessible port of nearby Turbo and bought some tickets on the “panga” or speedboat that acts as a water taxi. It took us about an hour and a half to travel north towards Panama and eventually get to the beach community of Trigana. This spot was recommended to us as an ideal non-touristy spot. And we were easily the only internationals amongst many Colombians out to enjoy the “Puente”, or three day weekend – apparently in the world of cities and 9-5 jobs , Colombia enjoys a “Puente” seemingly every other weekend. This is something I’d like the US Congress to consider, more government sponsored three-day weekends. After of course it considers, perhaps – just a humble suggestion - impeaching the President.

I was talking with my folks a couple of nights ago and they told me that Bush commuted the “too severe” sentence of Scooter Libby last week. Well, Happy Birthday America. Honestly, even Paris Hilton spent a few days in the celebrity clink for her shenanigans. This kind of cronyism, among other impeachable moves by the current administration like: “no we swear, you are all about to die because there are definitely weapons of mass destruction” or the illegal Orwellian spying on the American people or just the down right reprehensible treatment of prisoners at Guantanamo makes it so hard for the US to legitimately criticize a place just as obviously steeped in corruption like Colombia. I’m very glad that less US money will be directed towards militarized outlets here in the next year, but as I close in on my last four months here I continue to be reminded that there is much to do back home.

But wasn’t I writing about the relaxing weekend at the beach?

It was so great to stretch out in the hot sun and float in perfect temperature of Caribbean ocean. Of course, working as an accompanier in a community that non-violently rejects all armed groups and aggressions, it was a bit jarring to share the peaceful coast with members of the very same 17th Brigade that has jurisdiction over the Peace Community and surrounding area. Young men in camouflage and with automatic weapons at the ready stalk up and down the beach and the nearby lodgings all day and night. I really think the Colombian army should reconsider the type of camouflage they are using in beach areas as the green doesn’t really blend in with the sand and surf. A fellow beach-goer told me that the last combat in the area had happened about an hour further north in 2002 between the army and the FARC. Apparently no combat has occurred since then but the entire region remains heavily militarized, as all ports located in the area are prime drug trafficking spots. Also, for all vegetarians considering a trip to Trigana – bring your own food – or be prepared to enjoy a not-at-all nutritious three meals a day consisting of rice and patacon (plaintain fried and mushed into big flat disc and fried and mushed again). All in all it was a lovely and absolutely needed break from the FOR Tshirts and life up here on the mountain.

There are some other important things to report:
Last week news broke that 11 FARC hostages, all local government officials from Cali kidnapped five years ago, had been killed in what the FARC is claiming was crossfire initiated when an unidentified unarmed group attempted a rescue effort. This is a huge blow to hopes of a humanitarian exchange of FARC kidnap victims. The FARC has been maintaining its stance that it will not negotiate with the government until its demands for a demilitarized zone of 785 square kilometers. But the recent prisoner release by Uribe seemed to indicate that the government was perhaps beginning to explore other (if surprising and ineffective as the FARC release) avenues toward negotiation. European countries have also offered to help broker negotiations, but if the FARC were actually responsible for the death of the 11 deputies, negotiation seems to be an incredibly hard point to arrive at. This news has been dominating the media in the past week.

Sharing the news spotlight has been less serious and sad news: Copa America 2007, played in neighboring Venezuela – the oldest tournament in South America in which Colombia found glory back in 2001. Adding to the excitement, Mexico and the USA were invited to participate. The gringos were coming off the very recent Copa de Oro victory, having won the final against Mexico. Colombia and the US were put in the same group and both ended up being eliminated from further tourney play even before their third game, against each other, took place last night. Colombia lost to Paraguay 5-0 (ouch) in its first outing and to Argentina 4-2 in its second. The young US team didn’t fare much better loosing to Argentina 4-1 and then Paraguay 3-1. It has been great to hear the announcements of “GOOOOOLLLLL” from radios and TVs here in the community. I’ve caught bits and pieces of the games at our next-door neighbor’s house but mostly am able to extract the results of the game from the announcer’s dramatic cries and proclamations.

We did some errands in town yesterday and set out a bit later than I had hoped, meaning that we wouldn’t arrive in time for the start of the game. Our late start ended up not mattering at all though, as a crazy storm blew in about fifteen minutes into our walk, drenching us the rest of the hike up and taking away the power here in La Unión. As I type this our wallets and notebooks and just about everything else (all had been tucked away in plastic bags to no end) is strung out in the hot afternoon sun. I, myself, should really be hung out to dry too as I fear that I have permanently taken on a faint smell of mold.

Anyway Colombia won 1-0. And the quarter finals continue this weekend. Go, Mexico.

Monday, July 02, 2007

Just another week in the campo

It is old news by now, but probably worth saying that the House Foreign Operations Bill was passed over a week ago and included some very positive changes in aid towards Latin America in general and Colombia, specifically. Thanks to all who wrote and called their Reps - DC seems to have been listening. US tax dollars will now be flowing southward in the form of more economic/humanitarian aid, even though the package still maintains a military focus (65% of total aid to Colombia is to support military efforts). The bill even includes some humanitarian provisions that have never before been included, one requires the State Department to certify that Colombian armed forces are not violating land and property rights of Afro-Colombian and indigenous communities. This is all good news. However, I am hesitant to call it a ¨victory¨as it is being widely viewed in human rights circles. This is still a disproportionately militarized aid package. And being a believer in non-violence I struggle to find any good in supporting armed conflict. But, I´ll take it. It is a start towards moving in the right direction.

The past week was filled with much of the same - visits and rain and hammocks and sun. A week ago Saturday we broke a piñata in celebration of 25 years of teammate Mayra. This happened a week after her birthday because I decided to start making the piñata the day of, forgetting about the amount of time it takes to dry - especially when pasting the newspaper to the balloon with a concoction of corn meal and sugar, not my best idea ever. But one of our friends took over and finally it was finished and ready for the rowdy crowd of kids and adults. We reinforced it with duck tape and ended up creating an almost unbreakable piñata. This meant that everyone that wanted to, had a chance to hit it. Actually making contact with it was made much harder by yours truly and one of our friends from the community as the two of us pulled on opposite ends of twine causing the piñata to sail up towards the ceiling or down towards the floor just as the blindfolded candy-seeker was about to place a good solid wop on it. This spectacle lasted for quite some time and eventually turned into an impromptu dance in the kiosk. People have been asking us all week when we will break another piñata.

A week ago Sunday, we accompanied a community "pilgrimage" to the vereda of Miramar. Miramar was the home of recently killed ex-community leader Francisco Puerta. Francisco was shot down in front of an Apartadò club on May 12th by paramilitaries. We walked the almost four hours to the site of the Miramar Humanitarian Zone (physical space for civilians to temporarily displace to in case of combat, thus avoiding more permanent displacement)where our small group from La Uniòn met up with folks from San Josecito. Father Javier said mass for Francisco and community members spoke about Francisco and other murdered leaders. We then made our way back to San Josecito and La Uniòn, following the winding river most of the way.

When Mayra and I got back up to our house after the pilgrimage, we found that the electricity was once again off (not at all surprising) so we lit some candles and discovered that there was a dead rat in our water tank (quite surprising). Rats are carriers of the dreaded leptospirosis, one of the three tropical diseases that hit me at the same time back in March. Mayra also suffered through it in April. A dead rat is better than a live rat but a dead rat in a water source is enough to make me really sick to my stomach. So I found a glove and a hundred plastic bags to put my hand into and then fished the dead rat out. And then we scrubbed and scrubbed. And then we went on a rat removal mission. All in all we have (intentionally) killed four rats in the past week or so. That same night (electricity and thus lights, still out) Mayra discovered a snake in her room. This past month everyone we talk with seems to warn us of the poisonous snakes that are all about. A woman was bit a month ago and almost died, other people have died, I would most likely die if bit, etc...

So, to see a snake by candlelight was not at all an ideal situation. I must admit that we both jumped on nearby chairs and began to scream. It was just too much for one candle-lit night. Mayra decided it had to be killed and went for the machete as I insisted we put our stocking feet into boots, lest the reptile should strike. As we went to the front porch to put our boots on I yelled out into the night ¨There is a snake, there is a snake!". The night was quiet and doorways were empty, all save our favorite next door neighbor, three-year-old Esteban who answered my cries with ¨Whaaaaaaat?" Very cute, but not very helpful.

Luckily another neighbor walked past a few moments later and we handed him the machete as we went to locate the snake that had crawled through the wall from Mayra´s room to my messy room. Just another reason I should not leave clothes all over the floor. Our neighbor finally found it and killed it. He told us it was ¨brava¨ (angry or ready to strike) but that it actually was not poisonous. The lights, of course, came back on about four minutes after the snake was dead. Ahhh, life in the campo.