Light one candle

Yesterday was the official start of the Christmas season here in Colombia. Families light candles, which in Catholic communities is to honor the Virgin Mary, and in all Colombian communities is done to celebrate the "Illuminación" and the start of the holidays. La Unión is not very Catholic or even Evangelical, but candles were lit nonetheless. One of the older men in the community was explaining his religion to me as the enjoyment of music. He said the rhythms and strains of a guitar get him as close to heaven as he has ever been. Many campesinos, as he did, felt abandoned by the Catholic church in the early days of La Violencia and into the current conflict as the hierarchy overwhelmingly sided with the conservative and wealthy power holders. There have been, of course, many priests also dedicated to the people, preaching a theology of liberation but the rift in some communities has yet to heal and religious practices are noticeably absent. Regardless, the warm light of candles on the front stoops and windows of small houses, aided by a clear night allowing the bright moon to do it's part of the illumination stoked the feeling of comfort that is daily growing inside of me.

Today is a national holiday and although we are in town to run errands that include trips to the bank, post office and Electric Company, all we have found are closed signs and lots of candle wax on the sidewalk, a sign of last nights candle lighting. People were selling candles all over the streets today in Apartadó making the bustling informal economy full of more bustle. The informal economy here really is quite impressive. You don´t need a cell phone because you can buy cell phone minutes on the street. There is at least one table on every corner selling minutes for the equivalent of about 25 cents. Today, because I have yet to receive my Colombian ID card from the bureaucracy-laden government (some things are common the world over) I made a ID-sized copy of my passport and got it laminated at the table that said "se plastifica". About a dollar later I had a very official looking passport ID card. Other tables sell fruits, freshly caught fish, bags, ponchos, hats, sandals, candies, jewelry, and the list goes on.

The heavy rains seem to be slowing down here and our walk down the mountain to town was not as muddy as it has been nor was the river as raging. It is also quite possible that I am finally adjusting to this new life and so things do not seem quite as hyperbolic. I think, however, that they will remain awe-inspiring as I can't imagine ever being able to take in all that I am experiencing and find it commonplace.

The kids have been loving the digital camera that the too-generous Wesolek´s got for me. The ability to instantly see the photo that has just been snapped is a curiosity to children and adults alike and a chorus of "Show me, Amanda, show me!" follows the snap of every picture. And for my part, I love, love, love, being able to share photos of my experiences over the information superhighway. More importantly, I´m forever grateful to to the Wesoleks for the thoughtful and useful gift of the camera!